Collection: Torches

The Logic of Light: Power, Reliability & Rigging - In the Irish Sea, your torch isn't just for seeing, it’s for being seen and communicating with your team. A high-quality light system is built on three things: burn time, redundancy, and secure rigging.

1. Burn Time & Redundancy Always choose a primary torch with a burn time that exceeds your planned dive time by at least 50%. Batteries can lose efficiency in cold water.

• The Backup: For night dives, wrecks, or any overhead environment, you must carry at least 1 backup independent light source: one powerful primary and 1 compact backup light (ideally 2 backups). This ensures that even two independent failures won't leave you in total darkness.

2. Beam Angle: Cutting Through the Murk Avoid "wide-angle" video lights for general diving. In murky or silty water, a wide beam creates "backscatter", lighting up every particle in front of you and blinding your vision.

• The Oceanauts Standard: We recommend a tight, concentrated beam (typically 6º to 10º). A narrow beam "punches" through the particles and creates a clear signal that your buddy can easily track.

3. Precision Rigging: The Bolt Snap A torch hanging by a plastic wrist lanyard is a snag hazard and a lost piece of gear waiting to happen.

• Secure Attachment: We recommend removing the factory lanyard and tying a 316 stainless steel bolt snap directly to the torch body using cave-line or high-tensile cord.
• The Benefit: This allows you to securely clip the light to your chest D-ring when not in use. It stays streamlined against your body, won't dangle into the silt, and is always exactly where you expect it to be when you reach for it.

Academy Note: If you are using a "corded" canister light, ensure your bolt snap is tied to the light head so you can "park" it on your right-shoulder D-ring during a gas switch or when using a reel.